A Maritime Spin on Mole

Iliana de la Vega

Are white mole-seafood dishes having a moment? They are at El Naranjo, a refined Mexican restaurant helmed by James Beard Award winner Iliana de la Vega, executive chef. Moles are a staple on her menu, but the white mole was an unexpected hit, she says.

For this iteration, de la Vega creates a white mole with toasted cashews, sesame seeds, almonds and Serrano chile for heat. The resulting creamy, complex sauce serves as an ideal complement to the delicate halibut. For a sweet contrast, a pineapple-sweet potato-apple purée is laced with Mexican canela (cinnamon) and piloncillo, the unrefined cane sugar, lending a candied quality. “There are many layers of flavor in this dish,” she says. “There is a slight kick from the habanero and green onion oils, which makes it an incredibly complex dish. We originally had it on our menu as our mole of the month, but our guests enjoyed it so much that we put it on the menu permanently.”

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