Stop 5: Bun Cha Hang Quat

Like many modern cities with ancient roots, Hanoi doesn’t fit neatly within its own lines. Instead, sidewalk storefronts often belie a dozen other businesses tucked behind narrow alleys and alongside private residences. But meandering down these tight passageways can evoke a sense of flavor discovery, especially when the prize at the end is a lunch at Bun Cha Hang Quat.

The restaurant is smoky and tightly packed with locals, their business attire seemingly out of place amid the bright blue tables with peeling paint. As the name suggests, bun cha is the menu headliner. Like pho, it’s a noodle dish that welcomes customization and individual fine-tuning, but that’s where the similarities end. Rather than a composed soup with various cuts of beef, bun cha is first and foremost a grilled pork entrée; it just so happens to prominently feature a broth-like sauce, too.

Bun Cha Hang Quat serves its rendition with pork belly (rather than patties) already doused in the umami-rich broth-sauce, made with fish sauce, sugar, vinegar and chiles and diluted in water. Shared sides of romaine, sprouts and herbs like Thai basil and perilla bring fresh flavor and a bit of crunch while cold plates of vermicelli offer a carb component. Overall bun cha is a much lighter and cooler dish than pho, making it an appealing noodle option for summer menus. It even has a celebrity endorsement from the likes of former President Obama and Anthony Bourdain.  

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