Saddling Up to Texas Tartare

Levi Goode

Parisa is a hyper-regional specialty brought to Texas Hill Country by settlers from Central and Eastern Europe. This variation on a classic French beef tartare typically features cheese, spices, citrus and onions. At Credence, a live-fire concept celebrating South Texas cuisine, the starter menu features a modern take on parisa. “We lightly smoke beef tenderloin in our hearth, chill and mince it, then mix it with garlic, roasted Serrano, aged cheddar, capers, chives, cilantro, housemade roasted garlic olive oil and sherry vinegar,” says Levi Goode, executive chef. “The ingredients speak to the region, and it’s one of many menu items that are part of our Texas culinary heritage.” The dish is served with gaufrette potatoes, which are essentially waffle-style “fancy potato chips.”

Goode explains the evolution of this signature dish. “Traditionally, parisa is made in bulk and refrigerated. Sometimes it’s mixed vigorously to resemble a spread. While we appreciate the original dish, what we like about making it to order is that each of the ingredients is pronounced and forward: smoky, creamy, acidic, herbaceous and savory. This is why it’s been popular with our guests.”

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