State of the Plate: The Finest Happy Hour

While happy hour may seem like a contemporary innovation, its long history dates to the 19th century, when it denoted local social clubs convened around the country. Often created by and for ladies, these hour-long get-togethers featured activities like quilting and recipe sharing, as well as lectures on temperance. In 1913, the U.S. Navy instituted similarly alcohol-free Happy Hour Socials aboard ships to boost crew morale by means of entertainment like movies and sports like boxing matches.

The cocktail connection came about during Prohibition, when the term “happy hour” was reportedly code for a speakeasy or other place to buy illicit alcohol. The phrase outlasted the era and thrives in the current day as a time-tested means to drive traffic to restaurants and bars during typically fallow off-hours.

As happy-hour promotions have evolved, so, too, have participating restaurants, their hours and their offerings. Many are looking to lure post-pandemic patrons, whose work-from-home, dine-on-demand shutdown habits have thrown conventional dayparts up for grabs.

Changing Players

While historically the province of full-service operators, limited-service brands have also been jumping on board to boost their bottom lines during non-peak hours. Sonic Drive-In pioneered the concept with its long-running happy-hour specials that put the spotlight on its innovative beverage program. Available daily from 2 to 4 p.m., drinks like the signature blue-coconut-flavored Ocean Water, fruit-forward Limeades like Cherry or Cranberry and Slushes like popular Blue Raspberry or Peach are half price; they can be accompanied by discounted snacks like Tater Tots and Mozzarella Sticks. The latter were also featured during the Snacky Hour promotion that ran through the month of August and offered selected bites for $1 apiece daily from 2 to 5 p.m.

Smashburger cooled down the sizzling summer with a limited-time offer to “Shake Up Happy Hour” every Friday from 2 to 5 p.m. with 50 percent off hand-spun shakes. Fun flavors included Banana Chocolatey Chip and Salted Caramel. And Starbucks announced last spring that it was considering an Aperitivo Menu fashioned after its European operations to provide “a casual, sit-down feel without the cost of full-service dining.” The menu reportedly under consideration comprises sparkling beverages, coffee drinks and savory snacks that will be available from 2 to 5 p.m.

Changing Times

The convention of happy hours restricted to late afternoon and/or early evening on weekdays is being upended. Smokey Bones recently launched an all-day, every-day happy hour menu to lure cash-strapped, inflation-weary patrons with drinks that start at $3 and dishes that include $6 Boneless Wings and $7 Cheeseburgers. Imbibers in groups can dive into $15 Beer Buckets.

Phoenix-based Blanco Cocina + Cantina also created an all-day happy hour, but in this case the nonstop flowing margaritas and sizzling tacos are only available on Tuesday; remaining weekday happy hours are 2 to 5 p.m.

Other operators are also reengineering their programs in a bid to capture customers. This spring, West Coast steakhouse concept Claim Jumper debuted extended happy hours of 3 p.m. to close on Sunday through Thursday nights and 3 to 7 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Southern California competitor El Torito’s daily 3-9 p.m. promotion features multiple price tiers, from $4 for Street Corn and house wine or draft beer to $10 for Mahi Mahi Tacos and a Margarita Flight.

And while the time is more traditional, Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurant’s approach takes advantage of the brand’s wine expertise. Its Wine O’Clock menu from 3 to 5:30 p.m. includes an international selection of wines along with upscale appetizers like Four Cheese Truffle Arancini and Shaved Prime Sliders.

Changing Menus

To accompany updated happy hours, restaurants often enhance the experience with updated items. At Claim Jumper, these include Buffalo Wings with Whiskey Glaze, Street Chicken Tinga Tacos and all-new cocktails like Spicy Mango Margarita with fresh jalapeños and Blue Skies with rum, blue curacao, lemon and Sprite.

Buca di Beppo’s Happiest of Hours boasts fresh takes on guest favorites with shareable bites like Crispy Parmesan Brussels Sprouts, Mini Fried Mozzarella and Bruschetta that can be washed down with quaffs like the new Aperol Spritz. Meanwhile, Carrabba’s happy hour just got happier with the addition of the new Fennel Sausage Arancini, made with risotto, fennel sausage and a trio of cheeses served with marinara for dipping.

And last December, Red Lobster made headlines with a turnaround strategy that included a happy-hour relaunch. Food & Wine magazine lauded the deal as “surprisingly good,” with $5 drinks, such as the Classic Margarita and Top-Shelf Long Island Iced Tea, as well as $2 off select appetizers, including the touted Lobster Flatbread. There are also Crab Queso, Lobster Dip and Seafood-Stuffed Mushrooms, along with Mozzarella Sticks for non-seafood lovers.

Outlook and Opportunity

Amped-up competition suggests the happy-hour daypart is of growing importance and will continue to inspire menu innovation. Conspicuous by their absence, however, are zero-proof beverages, even though most full-service bar menus boast both nonalcoholic cocktails and beers.

A notable exception is North Italia, where the happy-hour drinks list features Italianate wines and cocktails, plus a trio of zero-proof bar specialties including Just Peachy, made with ginger beer; Limonata Rossa, made with black cherry and soda; and Piña No-Lada, with coconut, pineapple, fresh lime and bubbles. It’s a savvy tactic that can eliminate the veto vote and attract teetotalers, the sober curious and Gen Zers, who’ve stepped down their consumption of alcohol.