More Than Margs

As tequila continues its upward trajectory in the spirits category, it’s time to showcase the versatile blue agave-born spirit in cocktails other than a margarita or paloma—although they both command high order volumes across the board. At Casa Salles, a boutique hotel in Tequila, Jalisco (where the agave landscape and industrial faculties are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List), F&B Director Alberto Guzmán Ontiveros makes everything from molecular martinis to Moscow mules with tequila. The Guarreña distillery, where El Tequileño tequilas are produced, is right next door, so Ontiveros has the entire portfolio at his fingertips.

The collection comprises 10 varieties in all—from the blanco (made with 70 percent agave and 30 percent sugar and unrefined piloncillo sugar) to 100 percent agave reposado to the sweet, vanilla-forward Cristalino. Ontiveros serves the originals but also relishes the opportunity to create fresh riffs. Read on for details on five Jalisco-inspired tequila cocktails plus ideas to make them your own.

1The Batanga

Tequila’s oldest bar is 64-year-old La Capilla, and it’s where the famous batanga was born. Similar to a Cuba libre, the bantanga is made with tequila instead of rum, and is a refreshing mix of blanco, Colima lime and Mexican Coke served in a 16-oz. pint glass on the rocks with Colima salt (sourced from the Pacific Coast state of the same name).

It was created in 1961 by late owner Don Javier, who was known to “cut” each drink with a steak knife he kept in his belt (they still use the original knife). El Tequileño has been the house tequila since the beginning and the blanco has historically served as the base and blank canvas to pair with Mexican Coke—from a glass bottle only, says Ontiveros. In addition to the classic build, Casa Salles team creates fresh riffs, with ingredients including dark chocolate mole or a scoop of lime ice cream for a dessert-friendly float. Each drink is made to order with a knife; Don Javier’s original blade is still part of the knife rotation.

2The Cantarito

 
In the city of Tequila’s Plaza Principal, orange clay to-go cups of all sizes can be found stacked next to bouquets of colorful straws at equally vibrant vendor stands. These vessels are known as cantaritas or jarritos de barro, and often contain a mixed drink of the same name. Originating from Jalisco, the Cantarita is a bright, fruity and refreshing drink from Jalisco that’s similar to a Paloma; it’s composed of reposado tequila, fresh orange, grapefruit and lime juices, salt and grapefruit soda topper (usually Squirt or Fresca).

“The clay jar keeps it colder longer,” Ontiveros says. He likes to serve the refreshing, but not too sweet, drink with fish or salad, noting that its pairings can work like white wine. The drink can have a Tajín or salt rim and comes with two ounces of reposado tequila. “Blanco would highlight the orange and grapefruit, but the reposado brings out all the citrus flavors,” he says.

3The Carajillo

 
Immediately striking in both flavor and visual presentation, the carajillo features dark, bittersweet carajillo and an impressive layer of foam. The drink comprises strong espresso and Licor 43 shaken to a beautiful frothy mix and offers a nice alternative to an espresso martini. “We always respect the details of a cocktail and the carajillo was born in parts of Spain but is also popular in Cuba where you might see Cognac added. But you will also find different versions of it all over Guadalajara,” says Ontiveros. His Mexican version uses the 18-month aged (in American and French oak) añejo gran reserva with Licor 43, espresso and a bit of amaretto for balance. It’s shaken and served over ice to start the morning or end the night as a digestif.

4Tequila Colada

 
Ontiveros works closely with Efraino Villanueva, executive chef at Casa Salles, to create tequila cocktail pairing menus. One challenge the pair undertook was finding a match for a chicken mole. “We wanted to do a take on a piña colada, so we swapped the milk and rum,” says Ontiveros. The result was a shaken tequila colada made with blanco infused for 48 hours with fresh pineapple, coconut cream, Colima lime, and blue matcha powder (the color comes from butterfly pea flower). To complement the dish’s accompanying fresh tortillas, the rim is dusted with tortilla ashes, though coconut ashes also work. Shaken and served on the rocks, the tequila colada is a perfect (and pretty) pairing for amaranth-and-poblano-mole chicken.

5The Sangrita

 
“The legend is that sangrita started from saving the juice of pico de gallo and using it to accompany sips of tequila,” says Ontiveros. He makes his own bottled version of the spicy fruit and vegetable chaser meant to kick off any meal as a shot taken right after lime juice and blanco tequila. “The lime juice helps clean your mouth and prepare your tastebuds to receive the tequila. You finish with sangrita, which prepares you for the food,” he says.

His classic version of the Jalisco-born chaser, said to be created in the 1920s, features equal parts orange and tomato juice, lime juice, pepper and hot sauce. He also makes a signature version with pineapple and Serranos. “You can use mango or strawberries to change the flavor,” he says of the non-alc chaser he’s used to top a cucumber margarita or in a vampiro, made of tequila, sangrita and grapefruit soda.

While it’s unlikely that any tequila-based cocktail will topple the margarita’s category domination, these hyper-regional quaffs are a sip in the right direction. By incorporating new ingredients or food pairings with the classic builds, mixologists can introduce guests to lesser known beverage traditions and build new iterations that speak to their own sensibilities and their consumers.