Pivoting Paneer Through Smoky Character

Vaibhav Sawant

Full transparency is in effect on the menu at Fitoor Indian Grill. Guests know to expect a break with tradition when ordering the clearly named Reinvented Paneer Lababdar. But they don’t know—until the first bite—just how well Vaibhav Sawant, executive chef, succeeds in his goal to recast the North Indian favorite. “Our version adds a modern twist while maintaining the integrity of the traditional flavors,” he says. “It’s progressive, with an overall vibrant presentation. It’s one of the most talked-about dishes on the menu.”

Paneer lababdar is a rich and creamy dish featuring paneer in a mildly tangy, slightly sweet gravy made with tomatoes, onions, cashews and aromatic spices. “The traditional dish relies on the paneer absorbing the gravy’s flavors, but I wanted it to hold its own character. Smoking the paneer was a bold move that paid off,” Sawant reports. After multiple trials, he settled on a quick, cold smoke with deghi mirch (Kashmiri chile powder) and cloves to deliver “the right amount of warmth and complexity without dominating the sauce.” Sawant also applied aeration techniques to produce a velvety emulsion, lightening the typically heavy sauce. “Finally, I wanted to add a unique textural element and incorporated a paneer-based sheet using molecular techniques. This added a modern touch and is a visually stunning element.”

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