Sophisticated Takes on 2 Childhood Favorites

As a general rule of thumb, palates—like people—mature over time. Even food-savvy Gen Zers and Alphas can expect their preferences to evolve as they seek out increasingly nuanced dishes. Accordingly, childhood favorites tend to be simple and straightforward, often hitting a single, approachable flavor (sweet, salty, savory) while steering clear of bitter or sour notes. It’s why, generation after generation, foods like chicken tenders, mac and cheese, PB&J and ice cream sandwiches remain iconic and beloved.

But even if adults stay fond of these nostalgic eats, they’re less likely to order them—and herein lies the opportunity. The familiar nature of many childhood classics makes them the perfect springboard for more avant-garde ingredients. Here, two restaurants demonstrate how decidedly “grown-up” foods, namely caviar and liver mousse, find their playful match in tater tots and donuts, respectively.

Tater Tots Meet Caviar

Tater tots may be a long-standing school cafeteria staple, but they are given an elevated spin at The Ruxton, a modern steakhouse concept from Atlas Restaurant Group in Baltimore. The name makes plain what guests can expect: Housemade Tater Tots & Caviar. This inventive, shareable starter is the epitome of approachable indulgence. “Our guests can have great caviar without having to spend a lot of money on it,” says Aaron Taylor, chef/partner. “It’s been an overwhelming success.”

The tots are made in house, using slow-cooked potatoes that are shredded and mixed with eggs, salt, pepper, Gouda and potato starch. Once baked, they are cut into small squares, fried to golden brown, then topped with chopped chives, dill, crème fraîche and a crowning touch of Kaluga caviar. “This dish is a play on what one might like to eat with caviar: the crème fraîche, chives and warm potato blinis,” says Taylor. “The crispy tater tots give more texture. There is crunch, richness and herbs for a balanced dish.” The tots are plated and served inside a caviar tin for added fun.

Chicken Liver Mousse Meets Donut

Like the nearby redwoods that inspire Sekoya’s name and design aesthetic, the menu at this Palo Alto, Calif., restaurant soars to magnificent heights. Take the Chicken Liver Mousse, a dish that captures the culinary point of view of Jason Johnson, chef de cuisine. “Like a lot of the menu, it was created with the idea of giving people diverse and unique flavors and ingredients that are still approachable,” he says. The starter features a classic chicken liver mousse recipe, elevated and accentuated by its accompaniments: banana bread donuts, Espelette-spiced cherry compote and blackberries. “The combination is unique to Sekoya.”

The mousse offers a smooth, creamy texture with notes of vanilla, pepper and nutmeg. The donuts, made in house, have a pain de mie dough base that is sweetened slightly with ripened banana. “They add a crispy texture to the dish, as well as serving as a vessel to scoop up the mousse,” Johnson explains. “The seasonal berries and jam are added for freshness, acid and sweetness.” He credits the approachability of the donuts with driving trial by diners. “Everyone has had, and most people like, hot donuts. Then, once they try the actual mousse, the texture and taste are very pleasant.”