Pani Puri Tart: Buckwheat tart shell filled with a tartare of green mango, apple, onion and green chiles; topped with a “bubble” of green mango infused with cumin and black sea salt and edible flowers
Indian Street Food Turned Elegant Amuse-Bouche
Indienne | Chicago
Sujan Sarkar
“Start simple” is a trusted way to commence a multi-course dinner, but chances are Sujan Sarkar would find such an approach lackluster if his Pani Puri Tart is any indication. “It’s a playful and unexpected way to start a meal, and it sets the stage for the innovative and exciting culinary journey that awaits,” says the chef and owner of fine-dining Indian restaurant Indienne.
Inspired by the Indian street-food classic, Sarkar’s modern take elevates the dish through fine-dining techniques, including a little molecular gastronomy. A tartare of brunoise-cut apple, green mango, onion and green chile is tossed with a bit of tamarind chutney and then nestled in a crispy buckwheat flour shell. The pièce de résistance is a “bubble” of green mango infused with cumin and black salt that is created through reverse spherification. The dish is finished with a garnish of edible flowers and greens. The overall experience produces an elaborate medley of tastes and textures. “The crisp tart shell delivers a satisfying crunch, while the tartare provides a refreshing, tangy contrast. The green mango bubble bursts on the palate, releasing a bright interplay of sweetness and acidity, while the cumin and black salt lend depth and complexity,” Sarkar says. “It captures the essence of pani puri in a refined, elegant presentation.”
About the Author
Nicole Duncan is the digital managing editor of Flavor & the Menu. She's reported on the restaurant industry for a decade, most recently as the editor of FSR magazine. In 2021, she won a Folio award for her feature on restaurant tycoon Tilman Ferttita. The following year, FSR was awarded Best Overall Issue for its May 2022 issue featuring Andrew Zimmern. She has profiled well-known chefs including Paola Velez, Fabio Viviani and Daniel Boulud, but also relishes the opportunity to spotlight under-the-radar trends and innovators.Read More Stories by Nicole Duncan
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